Phi Collection

So, I originally intended to do all of my illustrations in a digital format in order to keep with my theme of using technology as a visual and emotional language; however, i found that it took almost 4 times the amount of time that it would have taken me just using paper and pencil...  Which I find ironic since we are led to believe that technology has been developed to make tasks more simple or more efficient...

Anyhow, I only finished 3 of the illustrations in complete digital form and the rest are in quick sketch form.  My process had me first try and form a collection by designing each look separately, which did not yield a very cohesive collection.  After learning Drew's technique of plotting where on the body the collection is going to fall/cut/have detail, and putting the elements of my designs into the body map, the whole thing started to look more like a collection and less like someone's closet blew up.

After that, I went on to scan some of my croquis into Photoshop and Illustrator and started to draw faces.  I wanted the faces to feel soft and demure, fluid and pretty, like the gauzy material I used in the drapes of the collection.

Then I started to draw the outline of each look in Illustrator, to then transfer it into photoshop for colouring, shading etc.

The technicals I did are for the look that included the top that I draped, and the shirt skirt combo with the origami hip detail.

Phi - Illustration

I've decided to do my illustrations for Phi in a digital format to further reflect the integration of technology in society; however I've kept the drawings fairly natural in the face (as opposed to going with a "tech" style of illustration), to juxtapose the digital aspect...

Details - Shopping Trip

Phi is about defining the abstract concept of beauty through the use of mathematics and sacred geometry.  I think Phi will use a combination of smart textiles (such as conductive fibers, ThermoChromic inks) and natural fibers to further communicate my feelings about the deep integration of technology in society.  The palette will be fairly natural as a way to again, communicate the way technology is integrated into society, with the addition of gold, as Phi is considered the "golden number".  I would really like to incorporate some laser cutting into my designs because I think the way the technology cuts so that it appears or feels like the design is part of the fabric, is in line with my concept.

I also really like the idea of printing onto a sheer, nude fabric so that the printed pattern looks like it is part of your skin.  I think printing geometric shapes or a fibonacci spiral onto a sheer nude would be neat.  The shapes printed would mimic the shapes found in the body figure - triangle drawn from shoulders to waist, thin curved waves around the ribs...  further communicating how sacred geometry is so prevalent in our everyday lives, yet we don't necessarily notice or acknowledge it. 

I would like to see some softly shaped, origami details, juxtaposed with harder, crisply shaped origami.  The softer shapes would be alluding to the more abstract concept of origami, much like I am trying to communicate that there is a "formula" of sorts, to beauty.
As for seam finishes, I'd like to use french seams on the woven fabrics that are natural because it would then feel as though the fabrics were growing out of themselves into the shapes of the garments. with the Tech fabrics, I would like to see either raw edges or fabric welding, so once again, the fabric looks as though it is formed together as one.

Production would be in Greece because that is the origin of sacred geometry and Phi and so shall it be the origin of the Phi collection.  Unfortunately, production in Greece would probably be much more expensive than it would be to have this collection produced in China; however, as Greece is suffering from economic downturn, it may be possible to get a better price than it would be in a time of economic growth.  Production in Greece will affect the price point of this collection, as will the materials used.  Based on current pieces in the market, Phi will probably be priced at $300 - $800 for a top, bottoms from $500 - $900, dresses from $1000 - $3000, jackets from $2000 - $5000.

The market is looking for high end, statement pieces.  Currently, I think Balenciaga is the market leader and has saturated the market with very tech looking, structured pieces that focus on the technology of the textiles as well as the intricate pattern drafting.  I would like to have a similar approach with the thought and development behind the textiles, but with more balance between hard and soft shapes, i.e. more draping than traditionally seen at Balenciaga.

One concept that has been explored by a Berlin based design team, is using a computer program to map the body, convert the body contours into hard, geometric shapes and use those shapes as patterns to construct clothing : http://www.dezeen.com/2008/09/29/the-t-shirt-issue-by-mashallah-design-linda-kostowski/

These products pertain to my market as they are looking for their clothing to have more of a personality than just to function as cover.  My market itself, is interested in having the technology behind their clothing featured as having an aesthetic value and being showcased rather than it being a silent quality.  They probably work in a field where their position is integral, yet, their work isn't necessarily easy to spot in the finished product.